RV Hookups and Campgrounds Explained

Everything First-Timers Need to Know About Plugging In

If you've never camped in an RV, the hookup system can seem intimidating — water hoses, sewer connections, electrical adapters, and terminology like "full hookups" and "boondocking" that assume you already know what's going on. None of this is actually complicated. It just hasn't been explained well.

Here's the complete guide to RV hookups, campground types, and how to keep everything flowing (literally).

The Three Hookup Types

Every RV campground hookup involves some combination of three things: electricity, water, and sewer. These are referred to as "hookups" and campground sites are categorized by which ones they offer.

Electric Hookup

This is the most important hookup because it powers your air conditioning, microwave, outlets, and charges your house batteries. RV electrical comes in three flavors:

30-amp service: Standard for smaller RVs (most Class B and Class C motorhomes, smaller travel trailers). Uses a plug that looks like a dryer outlet — three prongs in a specific configuration. Powers everything except running two high-draw appliances simultaneously (you usually can't run the AC and microwave at the same time on 30-amp).

50-amp service: Standard for larger RVs (Class A motorhomes, large fifth wheels, big travel trailers). Four-prong plug. Powers everything simultaneously — you can run two AC units, a microwave, and still have power for everything else.

20-amp service (regular household outlet): Some basic campgrounds only offer a standard household outlet. You'll need an adapter, and you'll be limited in what you can run — typically just lights, charging, and the refrigerator. No AC on 20-amp.

Adapters you should carry: A 50-to-30 amp adapter (commonly called a "dog bone") and a 30-to-15 amp adapter. These let you plug into any available service regardless of your RV's native plug type. Most rental RVs come with these, but verify before departure.

Surge protection: Campground electrical is notoriously inconsistent. Voltage spikes, low voltage, and improper wiring can damage your RV's electrical system. A portable surge protector ($80–150) is cheap insurance. High-end models (Progressive Industries, Hughes Autoformers) also protect against open grounds and other wiring faults. Many rental companies include one; if yours doesn't, buy one.

Water Hookup

A water hookup provides pressurized fresh water directly to your RV through a garden hose connection. You hook up a hose, turn on the spigot, and your RV's faucets and shower work just like at home.

Use a drinking-water-safe hose. A regular garden hose contains chemicals you don't want in your drinking water. RV-specific "white hoses" (they're actually white or blue) are food-grade safe. Don't skip this.

A water pressure regulator is essential. Campground water pressure varies wildly — some are barely a trickle, others push 80+ PSI that can damage your RV's plumbing. A $10 brass pressure regulator attached between the spigot and your hose protects your system. Set it to 45–55 PSI.

A water filter improves taste. Campground water quality varies. An inline water filter (Camco, Culligan RV models) removes sediment, chlorine, and improves taste. Not required, but worth the $20.

Without a water hookup: Your RV has a fresh water tank (typically 30–75 gallons depending on RV size). Fill it before you leave, and you'll have water for 2–4 days depending on usage. Conservative usage (short showers, don't run the faucet while brushing teeth) stretches your tank significantly.

Sewer Hookup

This is the one people dread, and it's actually the simplest of the three once you understand the system.

Your RV has two waste tanks:

Black tank: Toilet waste. This is the one everyone worries about. Capacity ranges from 15 to 50 gallons depending on the RV.

Gray tank: Sink and shower water. Same capacity range. This fills faster than you'd expect because it captures every drop from dishes, handwashing, and showers.

At a full-hookup site: Connect your sewer hose from the RV's waste outlet to the campground's sewer connection (a pipe in the ground at your site). When your tanks are full, open the valve and gravity does the work. Always dump the black tank first, then the gray tank. The gray water flushes the sewer hose clean.

Without a sewer hookup: Your tanks fill up, and you drive or walk to a dump station to empty them. Most campgrounds have a centralized dump station even if individual sites don't have sewer hookups. Many gas stations and travel centers (Flying J, Pilot) also have dump stations ($10–15 fee typical).

How to connect without traumatic experiences:

1. Put on disposable gloves (yes, every time)
2. Connect the sewer hose to your RV's waste outlet — make sure it locks in place
3. Run the hose downhill to the campground's sewer inlet
4. Secure the hose end in the sewer connection (a rock or weight on the fitting works)
5. When ready to dump, open the black tank valve first
6. Wait until flow stops, close black valve
7. Open gray tank valve — this rinses the hose
8. Close gray valve, disconnect, rinse hose with fresh water if available
9. Store hose in its compartment, remove gloves

It sounds worse than it is. After the first time, it's a 5-minute routine.

Campground Types by Hookup Level

Full Hookups (Electric + Water + Sewer)

The luxury option. You have unlimited water, immediate waste disposal, and full electrical. You could stay indefinitely at a full-hookup site without needing to move.

Cost: $35–75/night at private campgrounds. $20–40/night at public campgrounds that offer full hookups (less common).

Who needs this: Anyone staying more than 2–3 nights in one place, families with kids (you go through water fast), anyone who wants maximum convenience.

Partial Hookups (Electric + Water Only)

The most common campground setup. You have power and water but no sewer at your site. You'll need to drive to a dump station when your tanks fill up (typically every 3–5 days with normal usage).

Cost: $25–55/night at private campgrounds. $15–30/night at public campgrounds.

Who this works for: Most RV renters. The dump station run is a minor inconvenience once or twice during a week-long trip.

Electric Only

Some campgrounds, particularly older ones and many state park campgrounds, offer only an electrical hookup. You'll use your fresh water tank and dump station.

Cost: $20–45/night at private campgrounds. $15–25/night at public campgrounds.

Dry Camping / Boondocking (No Hookups)

No electricity, no water, no sewer. You're on your own resources — battery power, fresh water tank, and careful tank management.

Cost: Free to $15/night. BLM land and national forest dispersed camping are typically free. Some basic campgrounds charge a small fee.

What you need: Full fresh water tank, fully charged house batteries (or a generator), conservative water usage habits, and knowledge of your tank capacities.

How long can you last? A well-equipped RV with a 50-gallon fresh water tank, lithium batteries or a generator, and careful conservation can boondock for 3–7 days between resupply stops.

Choosing a Campground

National Park Campgrounds

The crown jewels. Beautiful locations, reasonable prices ($20–35/night), but limited amenities. Most offer electric-only or dry camping — full hookups are rare. Sites are smaller (25–35 feet max is common), and reservations fill up months in advance for popular parks.

Book early. Reservations at places like Yellowstone, Yosemite, and Grand Canyon open 6 months in advance and sell out within hours. Set a reminder. Use recreation.gov.

State Park Campgrounds

Often the best value in RV camping. Many offer full hookups at $20–40/night with clean bathrooms, laundry, and swimming areas. Quality varies enormously by state — some state parks rival national parks in beauty with a fraction of the crowds.

Private Campgrounds (KOA, Jellystone, Good Sam, etc.)

Full amenities — pool, laundromat, WiFi, camp store, sometimes restaurants and mini golf. Full hookups standard. Sites are closer together and the atmosphere is more "RV park" than "nature."

Cost: $40–80/night, sometimes more for premium sites or holiday weekends.

When to choose this: First-timers who want an easy, fully-serviced experience. Families with kids who want activities. Long drives where you just need a place to sleep.

Harvest Hosts, Boondockers Welcome, and Alternatives

Membership programs ($80–120/year) that let you camp at wineries, farms, breweries, and private properties for free. No hookups, one-night stays, and you're expected to support the host's business (buy a bottle of wine, have dinner at the restaurant).

Great for: Unique experiences and free overnight spots during a road trip. Not for extended stays.

Campground Etiquette

A few things that experienced campers know and first-timers don't:

Quiet hours are real. Most campgrounds enforce quiet hours from 10 PM to 6 or 7 AM. This means no generator, no loud music, no revving engines. RV communities take this seriously.

Don't walk through other people's campsites. Walk on the road, not the shortcut through someone else's site. This feels like a small thing; it's not.

Control your campfire. Check fire restrictions before lighting up. Many areas ban campfires during dry season. Even when fires are allowed, keep them in the designated fire ring, keep them manageable, and extinguish them fully before bed.

Level your RV before unhooking. Most RVs have a leveling system or need leveling blocks. A level RV means your refrigerator works properly, water drains correctly, and you don't roll out of bed. This is also true of your sanity during a multi-day stay.

Manage your slide-outs. Know how far your slides extend and make sure they don't encroach on the neighboring site or obstruct access. This is a common source of campground friction.

None of this is as complicated as it sounds on first read. By your second night in a campground, the hookup process is routine. The learning curve is steep but short.